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Dragonfly Earrings

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Below are the instructions for the Dragonfly Earring Kits offered at Anita’s Beads. To complete your kit you will need a “Big Eye” needle, a pair of sharp scissors, and “Hypo-Cement” glue.

The kit includes two pieces of 6# Fireline, Czech dagger beads, Czech 4mm machine cut round beads, size 11/0 seed beads, 4mm soldered jump rings, and earwires.

You will string using a single strand of Fireline. The earring is reinforced by going around the path multiple times. Begin by picking up an 11/0 seed bead, one faceted round (the head), another 11/0 seed bead, two dagger beads, another 11/0 seed bead, four faceted rounds (the tail), and another 11/0 seed bead as shown below.

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Pull your thread through, leaving a 9-inch tail (single strand) of fire line at the head. You will need this piece later.

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Skipping the seed bead, pass your needle up through the four tail beads. Now add one 11/0 seed bead, two dagger beads, and another 11/0 seed bead. Now pass your needle through the head and the first 11/0 seed bead.

Pick up the soldered jump ring and repeat the path a second time to reinforce the earring. After you go through the jump ring a second time, continue down through the 11/0 seed bead above the head, the head, the left seed bead below the head, the two left wings and the seed bead below the left wings.

Now remove your needle from the main thread and thread the tail onto the needle. Pass the needle through the jump ring, the seed bead above the head, the head, the seed bead to the right, the two right wings, and the seed bead below the two right wings. Remove the needle.

Tighten the threads and tie a double knot. Pass the two ends of the thread down through the top three tail beads and trim with sharp scissors. Lay the dragonfly flat on a piece of scrap paper and glue the knot. Place a drop or two of glue where the four wings come together to keep them from flopping.

After the glue dries, open the loop on an earring hook, slip on the soldered jump ring of your dragonfly, and close the loop. Repeat for second earring.

 

 

Instructions for Super-DUO Wrap Bracelets

Your kit has beading wire with magnet clasp, wire guard and crimp already attached so you have a double wire for stringing. You will need chain-nose pliers for flattening the second crimp and cutters for trimming the wire at the end. The wire is stiff enough that you will not need a needle for this project.

Holding two wires together, string on one of the two small glass bead, then two metal heishi. Now separate the wires and put a seed bead on each, then string on a super-DUO two-hole bead with a wire through each hole.

Alternate two seed beads (one on each wire) and DUO’s ending with two seed beads. Let the beaded portion lay flat on your work surface to minimize twisting caused by too much tension.

4-wrap Bracelets: 30 inches of beads will wrap a 7.5-inch wrist four times.

1-wrap Bracelets: String 20 DUOs separated by seed beads before the focal. End with two seed beads and holding the two wires together, string on two heishi, then the focal, then two heishi. Begin the second half with two seed beads, one on each wire. Adjust for size by stringing extra or fewer beads.

Finish with two heishi, a glass bead, a crimp and a wire guard. Attach to the second loop on the magnet clasp. Next, string back through the crimp, the glass bead and the two heishi. This is all done holding the two wires together as one. Do not tighten yet. Leave at least an inch of play between the last beads and the crimp. (There is an extra crimp provided in the kit.)

Separate the magnet clasp and lay the bracelet flat. Slide beads up towards the uncrimped end to release the tension which causes the bracelet to curl and twist. Beads should all be touching with no wire showing between them except at the final end.

Tighten the end wires and flatten the crimp to finish.

All materials for Super-DUO bracelets are available separately at Anita’s Beads. Email Anita at anitaNH@roadrunner.com to place an order.

Daily Bracelet Instructions

Your Daily Bracelet Bead Kit contains:

  • Bracelet beads
  • Dangle beads
  • Seed beads or Crystal Bicones

Your Daily Bracelet Metal Kit contains:

  • 24 gauge headpins
  • 21 gauge half-hard round wire pieces
  • 3mm and 5mm Bali-style heishi spacers *or*  bead caps
  • Ball & Socket Clasp *or* Lobster clasp w/extender chain
  • 6mm Soldered Jump Rings

You will need the following tools to complete your bracelet:

  • Round-nose pliers
  • Chain-nose pliers
  • Wire cutters

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STEPS 1-6: CREATE THE DANGLES

Step 1 – Assemble four dangles for each bracelet bead. Daily Bracelets will have between 7 and 10 bracelet beads (between 28 and 40 dangles) depending on a) the size of the bead in your particular design and b) the size of your wrist.  On each headpin add (in order) one seed bead or crystal bicone, one dangle bead, and one metal heishi spacer bead (or bead cap if working in SP or GP). Note: Refer to the photograph of your Daily Bracelet as you work.

Step 2 – Bend one assembled headpin to a 90-degree angle using chain-nose pliers. Pinch the headpin wire just above the metal heishi spacer bead (or bead cap if working in SP or GP) with the TIP of the chain-nose pliers and bend the remaining top section of the wire 90 degrees. The portion of the wire held in the tip of the pliers is the SPACE which will allow you to make three wire WRAPs (3 complete turns) to close the LOOP which will be make in Step 3. The straight piece remaining after the bend is the TAIL.

Step 3 – Turn a LOOP using the round-nose pliers. Position the wire near the tip of the round-nose pliers so a small LOOP will be made. (Make note of this position and use it for all of your dangles so the LOOPs will be of uniform size.) Pinch the wire TAIL just after the bend. With the round-nose pliers in a vertical position (viewed straight on the tips of the pliers will look like this: 8) bend the TAIL up and over the top and then down until it forms a partial Loop. When the TAIL touches the other wire and you cannot wrap it any further, slide the wire off of the top of the pliers and move it to the bottom. Now you can continue wrapping the TAIL around until it forms a complete LOOP.

Step 4 – Using your chain-nose pliers, grasp the LOOP across two wires for a secure hold. With your other hand bend the remaining TAIL around the space which remains between the LOOP and the metal heishi or bead cap. It should take approximately 3 WRAPS to fill the space.

Step 5 – Using your wire-cutters, clip off the excess wire TAIL that remains, cutting as close to the WRAPs as possible. If a small snag is left, you can push it close to the WRAP with the tips of your chain-nose pliers.

Step 6 – Repeat Steps 2 through 5 to complete the remaining dangles.

STEPS 7-9: FORM FIRST LOOP ON BRACELET WIRES

Step 7 – Using your chain-nose pliers, grasp one piece wire at a point one-third from the end and bend the wire in a 90-degree angle to form the shape of the letter L. Note: One of the wires in your kit has already been bent and looped as a sample.

Step 8 – Using your round-nose pliers, grasp the wire by the short section just at the bend. You will need to make a LOOP which is approximately 2mm in diameter (like your sample) so you will be grasping further back on you round-nose pliers in comparison to where you formed the LOOPs on your dangles. (A larger LOOP is required to give your dangles room to move around once the bracelet is assembled.) With the round-nose pliers again in the vertical position (8) bend the TAIL up and over the top and down until it forms a partial LOOP. When the TAIL touches the other wire, slide the wire off of the top of the pliers and move it to the bottom. Now you can continue wrapping the TAIL around until it forms a complete LOOP.

Step 9 – Repeat steps 7 and 8 until you have one wire for each of your bracelet beads. The number will vary depending on which bracelet you are making. See: Step 1.

STEPS 10-18: CREATE THE BRACELET

Step 10 – With your chain-nose pliers, open the LOOP of one piece of wire enough to slide on one dangle, then the ring of your lobster clasp, and then another dangle. Close the LOOP with your chain-nose pliers.

Step 11 – Using your chain-nose pliers, grasp the LOOP across two wires for a secure hold. With your other hand, grasp the TAIL and wrap it around one complete turn. Trim off the remainder of the TAIL close to the wrap with your wire-cutters. You should have what resembles an eye pin with a closed LOOP holding your clasp with a dangle on each side of the clasp.

Step 12 – Add a heishi spacer (or bead cap if working in SP or GP), followed by a bracelet bead, and then another heishi spacer (or bead cap) to the wire. Then bend the wire 90 degrees with your chain-nose pliers directly after the second heishi bead. There should be no space between the heishi and the bend in the wire because you will only be wrapping the TAIL once after forming another LOOP.

Step 13 – Using your round-nose pliers, grasp the wire just at the bend. You will make a second LOOP which is approximately 2mm in diameter (matching the size of your first LOOP). With the round-nose pliers in a vertical position (8) bend the TAIL up and over the top and down, forming a partial LOOP. When the TAIL touches the other wire, slide the wire off of the top of the round-nose pliers and move it to the bottom. Now you can continue wrapping the TAIL until it forms a complete LOOP.

Step 14 – With your chain-nose pliers, open the LOOP you just made enough to slide on one dangle, a soldered jump ring, and then another dangle. Close the LOOP with your chain-nose pliers.

Step 15 – Using your chain-nose pliers, grasp the LOOP across two wires for a secure hold. With your other hand, bend the remaining TAIL around to form one complete WRAP. Trim off the remainder of the TAIL close to the WRAP with your wire cutters. You now have the first bracelet UNIT with four dangles and a soldered jump ring to which you will attach another piece of wire.

Step 16 – With your chain-nose pliers, open the LOOP of another piece of wire. Add one dangle to the LOOP, then slide the LOOP onto the soldered jump ring attached to the previous bracelet UNIT. Add a second dangle and then close the LOOP with your chain-nose pliers.

Step 17 – Using your chain-nose pliers, grasp the LOOP across two wires for a secure hold. With your other hand, bend the remaining TAIL around to form one complete WRAP. Trim off the remainder of the TAIL close to the WRAP with your cutters. You should again have what resembles an eye pin with a closed loop and two dangles attached to the soldered jump ring at the end of your previous bracelet UNIT.

Step 18 – Repeat steps 12 through 17 until you come to the second LOOP of your last bead. Add a dangle, then the second half of your clasp, and then the last dangle before closing the LOOP.

TO KEEP IN MIND:

The most common mistake is to forget to add dangles before closing the loop.
I can make a bracelet in about 1.5 yours (one hour to create dangles and then 1/2 hour to assemble). If you have not had much experience working with wire, figure on 3-4 hours to complete.

This is an advanced project. Take frequent breaks if you feel the need.

Visit the shop during business hours with your wire and bead kit materials and I will gladly assist you if you get stuck.

Here are links to additional items related to Daily Bracelets: Daily Bracelet Bead Kits – Daily Bracelet Metal Kits – Metal Findings for Daily Bracelets

11/0 Seed Bead Kumihimo Necklace Instructions

These are the general instructions for Anita’s 11/0 Seed Bead Kumihimo Necklace kits. Refer to the Information Card for your specific kit for strand patterns and a set-up diagram for braiding. To view a photo of the finished necklace, choose your kit number from the list on the Kumihimo Necklace Kits Page.

In addition to your kit you will need the following: small sharp scissors; beading awl; hypo-cement; a “Big-Eye” needle; chain nose pliers; round nose pliers; cutters; eight bobbins; a small kumihimo wheel.

Stringing Instructions:

By following the Stringing Specifications on the card that came with your kit, you will create eight strands beginning and ending with one yard of cord. There will be a knot at the beginning and at the end of each strand of beads to keep them centered on the cording. Lay the eight strands parallel to each other tie all eight cords together in an overhand knot to secure one end. You are knotting the extra cord right at the beginning of the beads. Use your beading awl to slide the knot into position. Now make a second overhand knot at the other end of the beads.

Braiding Instructions:

Before braiding the first end section of eight cords, string the cords through a tulip. Use your big eye needle to pull a few strands at a time through the inside of the tulip and out the back. The beaded end of the strands will go up into the tulip which serves as a cone end to hide the knot you made in the previous step.

The first end is now ready to be braided using a small round kumihimo wheel. Draw the cords from the first end of your necklace up through the center of the wheel. The tulip cap, beaded portion and the second set of cords will hang below. Arrange the eight cords on either side of the four dots on the wheel according to your Information Card, and string the required number of beads on each cord, winding excess cord onto a bobbin to secure the beads.

When you finish braiding beads, make two exchanges without beads to close off the braid. Then take the two cords that would have been used for the next exchange, remove them from their slots, and tie them into a double knot before removing the braid from the wheel.

Pass four of the cords through the closed loop of an eye pin. Tie a double knot with the other four cords to knot the braid to the wire. Use hypo cement to secure the knot and trim to within 1/2 inch of the knot once the glue has dried.

Pull the wire through a plain cone cap from the large open end. Place a 3mm metal heishi bead over the wire so it rests on top of the cone cap. Using chain nose pliers, bend the wire at a 90-degree angle right where it comes out of the cone. Form a small loop with your round nose pliers. Slide the ring of your clasp onto the loop and then wrap the loop closed using your chain nose pliers to hold the loop as you wrap the wire. Trim excess wire with cutters.

Repeat all steps of Braiding Instructions for the second group of eight strands only add the extender chain to the wire loop instead of the clasp.

This project assumes prior knowledge of wire looping and braiding an 8-strand beaded kumihimo braid.

Knotted Kumihimo Necklace Instructions

These are the general instructions for Anita’s Knotted Kumihimo Necklace kits. Refer to the Information Card included in your kit for bead counts and a set-up diagram for braiding. To view a photo of the finished necklace, choose your kit number from the list on the Kumihimo Necklace Kits page.

In addition to your kit you will need the following: small sharp scissors; beading awl; a dozen plastic drinking straws; hypo-cement; a “Big-Eye” needle; a darning needle; eight bobbins; a small kumihimo wheel.

Cut drinking straws into 1″ sections. For the number required, refer to your Information Card.

Begin by stringing the beads for the center portion of the necklace. Matching the thread to the bead color, string beads in sections separated by straws, beginning and ending with a bead.  String on all of the beads before you start knotting. A double bead will signal the end of a strand when you are knotting.

Make your first knot one yard from the end of the cord. You will use the extra cord to kumihimo braid the ends later. Slide the first bead up to the knot. Make a second knot right after the bead. Next will be a straw. Move it up next to the bead just knotted. Now make a third knot and slide it up to the end of the straw with the beading awl. Now move the second bead up to the knot and make a knot right after it. Keep repeating until you reach two beads together. The first bead will be the last bead of the strand you are working on. The second bead will be the first bead of the next strand. When you have knotted after the last bead, push all of the un-knotted beads down so you can leave one yard of cord after the last bead.

Begin the next strand by making a knot one yard from the end of the cord and repeat the steps in the paragraph above.

You should have knotted eight strands beginning and ending with one yard of cord. Remove each straw by bending the cord around your finger to move the cord to the bottom of the straw. Carefully cut across the top of the straw with small sharp scissors.

Hold the eight strands together from one end and let them dangle. Stagger the strands so the beads fall in different positions. Tie all eight cords in an overhand knot about 1/2 inch or so from the first bead. Then grasp from the opposite end and tie a second overhand knot.

Each end is now ready to be braided using a small round kumihimo wheel. Draw the cords from the first end of your necklace up through the center of the wheel. The beaded portion and the second set of cords will hang below. Arrange the eight cords on either side of the four dots on the wheel according to your Information Card, and string the required number of beads on each cord, winding excess cord onto a bobbin to secure the beads.

Braid the beads and then do a section of plain braiding to form a loop large enough to fit over the button. Remember to stretch your braid, otherwise the loop will stretch as the bracelet is worn. Finish the loop by stringing one cord at a time back down the center of the braid and out the side. Be careful not to insert the needle through a bead as it will break. Wrap the last cord around the base of the loop before pulling it through the braid. Trim loose ends of cord by pulling slightly as you cut. This causes ends to disappear into the braid. Secure the wrapped portion with a bit of hypo cement.

Braid the second half of the necklace just like the first only omit the plain braiding for the loop. When you finish braiding beads, make two exchanges without beads to close off the braid. Then take the two cords that would have been used for the next exchange, remove them from their slots,  and tie them into a double knot before removing the braid from the wheel. Pass all eight cords through the shank of the button. Move the button to within 1/2 inch of the beaded portion of the braid. Choose two of the cords and separate one to the left, the other to the right. Fold the remaining six cords from the button shank down to the braid. Use the two cords you separated to macrame flat using alternate cords to cover the 1/2 inch of cording between the button shank and the bracelet.

Finish the end by stringing one cord at a time back down the center of the braid and out the side.  Trim loose ends of cord by pulling slightly as you cut. This causes ends to disappear into the braid. Secure the macrame portion with hypo cement.

This project assumes prior knowledge of basic bead knotting and braiding an 8-strand beaded kumihimo braid.